An apron is the trim piece beneath a balustrade and is horizontal to the flooring. I have done it the same way, but with a Multimaster (or a japanese trim saw), I cut off the end of each nosing using a scrap of skirt board (with 1/16 ripped off it for the blade width) against the drywall and slid the skirt board in from the front. Over the years, this has been a great technique to know! Neither method is an option with an existing set of stairs with treads and risers in place. The key is to do exactly as you’re planning. The article pictures show how this is done. You’re done! Stair Skirts #stairs #without #skirt #board #stairswithoutskirtboard Stair Skirts | Ana White. If you followed that sequence it should fit. I’ve never done it but I enjoy building things in a different way to solve problems. My margin for error is always in the nosing. Same principle as starting baseboard or crown at the far end of the room. Congratulations on a job well done. Once you’ve got the line on the wall the rest goes together like clockwork. How to Make a Stair Skirtboard. It would be a great sense of pride if you did it yourself. Whenever I installed a newel as shown on the right side top of stairs I always got the newels with the longer bottom sections. I’d add a cap moulding on top of the skirt for a complete finished look. I’m also in my sixties, and when I was forty, I was turned down at a high end jobsite because I was too young. Again, it’s important to hold the scriber level as you work your way up the flight. Does the silky cut on the pull stroke ? This couldn’t be more timely! The base cap should transition from the existing baseboard at the top of the stairs to the base cap on top of the skirtboard. What’s left is plywood treads and risers. The scribing process resolves all the inconsistencies regardless of the different riser & tread sizes. By that I mean I hope I can give away as much of the knowledge and all of the money I’ve been able to accumulate. Thanks for the info. Theory alone is more efficient than experiential trial and error. A skirt board is installed to the finished wall (sheet rock, paneling, etc.) What kind of wood do you recommend? It will give the confidence that this really will work. That’s one of the reasons to leave only an inch to an inch and a half above the nosings so the skirt can “flex” into final position. If you are ready to embark on a stair skirt board, your next question will be what size lumber to use. I did paint the railing and spindles which also adds to the beauty of my foyer. What would look good in my opinion would be a piece of base cap moulding like on the top of your baseboard that can be seen behind the stairs on left. If you post a picture of your existing condition I may be able to make a better recommendation. But in the figures you show, it looks like you use that rise marker (and run marker later) on each step. This product is good on one face, sanded and ready to be cut to fit. I hope you have done well over the years. I’m not a stairbuilder in the same league as many of the tradesmen who’s articles I’ve read. The last two cuts depend on the height of your baseboard trim. A good razor saw & a scrap piece of wood to save you a lot of time. Skirting board is an architectural element used to enhance the appearance of a staircase. However I remain convinced that Norm’s method is quicker, one scribe, one cut – move on. Josh, Once you select a file, it will be uploaded and attached to the end of your comment. I intend on putting new treads on top of the plywood. If he couldn’t, he’d lose it. Installation Instructions. Sorry, kids, but this is one profession where reverse age discrimination is prevalent. I’m not sure. Stair skirt boards are used wherever a set of stairs has a side abutting a wall. I have done this in the past on not so high end jobs attic stairs. whether it’s a wall or another piece of material like brick, stone or whatever. I hope your project works well for you. Just thinking out loud I believe I would have scribed a cardboard or Luan template and after I had a tight fit then overlaid it over the panels, possibly with them laying on the floor. Sorry I missed replying to you until now. If yours are rough lumber stairs meant to be covered I’d consider installing “retro” treads and risers first and then scribing over the new stairs. It wasn’t an option to tear out the finish walls to get to the closed end of the risers and treads where they butted the wall. Attach the stair skirt board before the stairs are fully installed. After Williamson I went to work for a production homebuilder and prefabbed stairs were what we used for the main stairs with site built stairs to the many basements which were the standard in the SE Pa. area in the 70’s and 80’s. Lay a straight edge (board, yardstick, etc. ) Would that work? Two minor thoughts. “I’ll let you do it right or I’ll learn when you do it different but I won’t let you do it wrong” I’ve seen the nosings notched many times with excellent results. The deal was that if, after the skirt board was installed, the skeptic could slip the $20 bill into any of the joints, he’d win the $20. One of the primary advantages to scribing over top of the treads/risers is that you are not staring into the joints when you climb the stairs. http://www.amazon.com/Wheaton-Tools-PL600-Stringer-Layout/dp/B0000224Q0 I’m with you David. The skirtboard (sometimes called a stringer or simply skirt) is a flat board that is installed along the side of a staircase. Thank you for the kind words. I’ll help you in any way I can. It’s one of the reasons I’m still enthusiastic about being a tradesman after 45 years. I’ve attached a new image that I think shows what you are talking about. Set the sharpened nail point to the height of the highest riser. Now to the question: I have a 14 foot run ( 12 steps) with an inch-higher rise at the top and a 1/2 height step at the bottom. It is the easiest and you avoid making a ton of rise/run cuts to fit over the stairs. Especially if there is variance in the tread heights? Norm Yeager, A carpenter friend send me this link with a note how well this worked when he cut a skirt board this weekend. First, I cut a 1 x 12 template (that just so happens to look like a pair of pants or “britches” ) with a cut out about 1 inch wide and tall enough to fit over the top of the outside skirt board. For the next 13 years he was self-employed in residential and light commercial construction, building additions, homes and whatever came along. How hard would it be to find a base top molding that matches my current base molding? Happy scribing! So from this distance, use a level to mark a straight line vertically near the bottom end of the skirt board. Rough strings in place risers put on all first.Then Finish skirt is notched or scribed to risers only both sides you can shim riser to skirt from behind if needed .Treads butted to finish string both sides using a stair jig to get length and shape of tread. I don’t think a 1×8 will be quite enough but what I’ve described will tell you for sure. If you lay a straight edge over a couple nosings and mark the wall on the plane of the nosings you can measure back into the intersection of a tread and riser. In the article I describe the process and the reason I prefer it to your method. Hi Norm, I like to have that cap join the base at the top and the bottom. The best way to build finish stairs, is in the shop and on the bench. Once that was complete I transferred the template to my mdf board by tapping and spray painting the outline of the template onto the board. This is useful if you need a narrower width for your skirting, such as 5/8” or 1/2″. Ana, We were indeed fortunate to learn from Don Zepp. It’s a great one, huh? set it so i am taking at least a half inch .scribe nosing, the risers and the tread. There were some variances in the runs as well, approx. Therefore, if you aren’t able to remove your existing stairs and aren’t confident in your ability to cut a skirt around your stairs, then hire a carpenter. 1st class. I try to get as close to quartered sawn or rift . 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